Same here with the MP-E65mm with flash, the twin light flash heads stick out a bit in front of the lens. Moving from a front mounted CPL to the in-adapter one makes a big difference.
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7Artisans goes wide on the RF mount
- Thread starter Canon Rumors
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No use of filters below the water except when shooting fluoresence when a yellow barrier filter is required. All about getting light in and (generally) freezing the action. For "long exposures", you use rear curtain sync and 1/20s-1/50s to blur the background. No reflection reduction needed so no CPL.
EDIT: the above is correct for stills underwater shooting raw and changing white balance in post to taste. eg I don't try to change white balance for deep/shipwrecks as the blue seems to be more natural.
For video, then manual white balance is needed at each depth/distance to subject. For gopro etc, pink/red filters are used to approximate the change in available colours at the detriment of available light. Gopro doesn't recommend using filters at 30m for instance.
Adding strobes/video lights also means that no filters are needed. The difficulty with artificial lights are that there ends up being 2 different temperatures ie daylight for the foreground but ambient in the background. It is generally okay if the ambient colour and shadows are blue but I don't like it when green so I will desaturate the background in post in those situations.
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My iPhone housing came with a snap-on red filter tethered to the hinge pin, to balance the colors underwater. I thought, great…there’s not enough red light, so let’s block the other wavelengths as well. Thanks, but I’ll add white light instead.
There’s a fluo diver / physicist who makes custom gear including a 3D-printed replacement snap-on yellow barrier filter for the housing I have. I replaced the red filter with that.
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thanks for the reminder.. I have edited my post. For stils/raw then no filter is needed but white balance should be changed in post (to taste). For video then manual white balance or approximation using pink/red filters for different depths at the expense of available light.
For instance, Backscatter makes the Flip range of filters for goPro which can be switched in/out. I got the fluor/yellow as a spare to add but the quality was pretty poor as the amount of light needed was huge. For snorkelling, it was fine and scuba to ~15m with the red one.
https://www.backscatter.com/department/GoPro/product-category/Filters
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Funny quibble, but the fisheye zoom at 8mm isn't technically a full-frame lens at anything wider than 15mm :-D
Also there is the weird stereo lens, again not full-frame, but even wider.
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Erm, it depends on how you are measuring it. Just because it has a limited image circle doesn't mean that it's not full frame. It's still a full frame lens from the point of view that it's a 180' angle of view which by nature creates a circular image circle. The image circle still meets the full frame sensor top to bottom in the verticle axis. The apparent cropped corners, ie the full 180 degree angle of view will always create this effect on any sensor. You can't get a 180' angle of view (top and sides) which includes the corners on any format, it's a limitation of physics.
I still stand by my statement,which was correct at the time of writing. The EF 8-15mm Fisheye L lens is one of the two widest full frame lenses ever designed by Canon. Canon have now made the RF10-18mm. So it's one of three.
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Nitpick: the 10-18 is a rumoured RF-S lens, the 10-20L is the full frame lens that has been already announced.
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Note all APS-C lenses have at least a 27mm image circle, which means they hit the top and bottom edge of a full-frame sensor (24mm tall). That doesn't mean all APS-C lenses qualify as "full-frame." "Full-frame" doesn't refer to the details of the image captured by the lens, only that the image circle be at least 43mm wide. You know this. We know you know this. Why not have a laugh with us, it's a funny and weird situation about the only lens I can think of that sometimes is full-frame, and sometimes isn't.
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