Mine can take a while so I've learned to run noise reduction, distortion, and aberration corrections before I sleep or while I'm out in case I need to use the the computer for something else. I think mine only has 1gb ram and the external drive's speed is slow, but it does work.
Have you tried enlarging it with Topaz? or, I'd like to see the uncropped image if you care to share. The heat waves have a dreamy quality that appeals to me even if no magazine would publish it, if you made a series of similar images and used them for high quality prints, I believe some galleries would sell them, but often they want you to spend a lot of frames. For example, if you want to sell it for $50, they want you to invest $50 for paying them to frame it and then you have to sell it for $100. It can be a hassle and I don't agree with having to double the buyer's price, but that's the way the game is played...
With the setup I mentioned, none of the processes takes more than about 6 seconds with a 45MP image. That computer also has 64 GB of RAM, but so long as you don 't run too many programs or multiple files at once. If your time has value, a good computer is worth the money.
The AF is not as good as with the RF 100-500mm, which has 2 AF motors and wider f-number. I use just eye-AF with the whole field and BBF for BIF, 800mm for distant slow flying birds and zoom out to 400 or 500mm for fast ones closer up. The only problem I really find is the AF can’t keep easily when the bird rapidly changes its distance, leading to fewer tack sharp shots. For my Puffin trip at the end of the month, I’ll take the 100-500mm on to the island. I’ve posted quite a few BIF shots with the 200-800, including even some Swallows and Swifts at 400-500mm.
It was too small for Topaz! Here is the 1600mm shot, downscaled 2x to get it on the site. The bird is the dot in the centre.
You must have excellent vision to have seen the dot was a bird!
It was part of an old wooden gate or stile or something long gone.
If you needed iso 12800, you must have left the lens cap on or the equivalent. The sunny 16 rule is that is that at f/16 you shoot with 1/100s at iso 100. So at 1/800s f/9, 1/250s. Or, at iso 12800 and f/9 the shutter speed would be 1/40,000s.OK first of all I am no expert as attested to by the pics I post on this site.
Just got my 200-800 and took a few quick shots. In full sun at 1/800 800mm auto ISO results in ISO 12800
Maybe I need to move to Arizona and take pics of slow moving rocks instead of birds.
It’s just the standard exposure triangle using the number of stops required when you change iso, speed and aperture. On a sunny day you get the right exposure shooting at f/16 at 1/100s and iso 100. If you needed iso 12800 for 1/800 and f/9, then something was amiss.
Definitely something amiss. Should be no more than ISO 1000 even with fairly low reflectance subject, 2000 at the max in sunlight. I have many shots taken on very dark winter days at 1/800 and ISO 6400.OK first of all I am no expert as attested to by the pics I post on this site.
Just got my 200-800 and took a few quick shots. In full sun at 1/800 800mm auto ISO results in ISO 12800
Maybe I need to move to Arizona and take pics of slow moving rocks instead of birds.
There is only 1 stop of difference at the long end from your 150-600, so that should be easy to verify. Half the speed or twice the ISO should give you the same exposure.
