I haven't checked recently but I feel like the big white superteles didn't gain much if any sharpness by stopping down.I am yet to see a lens that is sharpest fully open. Well, other than the RF 800/11 and 600/11 I guess
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I haven't checked recently but I feel like the big white superteles didn't gain much if any sharpness by stopping down.I am yet to see a lens that is sharpest fully open. Well, other than the RF 800/11 and 600/11 I guess
It darkens down a lot when extended to 5x, iirc it’s actually f/16 when wide open at that point. Making it f/2 would brighten that up a lot.Funnily enough, the MP-E is the one macro lens I don't think needs more aperture.
Canon should finish the F4 "trinity" with a small, compact 24-70mm F4 L with about 500gr. I know, there is the 24-105mm F4 but I really don´t like the IQ on it and I sold it. Now I´m looking for a capable mid-tele (L) zoom. I'll wait and see what the 28-70mm F2.8 has to offer.The core lineup is almost done for the most part. Wide prime, fisheye, tilt-shift.
Exactly. It is at its sharpest around f/3.5 or f/4 and that is not good enough at 5x. Up to about 3.5x it is fine as it is ... except for CA. At 5x and especially on R7 it would need wider aperture for sharpness.It darkens down a lot when extended to 5x, iirc it’s actually f/16 when wide open at that point. Making it f/2 would brighten that up a lot.
An EVF makes this less of an issue, my MP-E shots improved a lot after I started using live view!
They do get sharper stopped down maybe 2/3 stop or so when extenders are added, especially the 2x.I haven't checked recently but I feel like the big white superteles didn't gain much if any sharpness by stopping down.
The TS-E 135/4L was a 0.5x macro, launched in 2017 and discontinued in 2022, it’s the only TS-E with an EoL date (2027). A very short lifespan for a L lens. Not sure if that suggests it’s slated for replacement with a TS-R, or that it was so unpopular that nothing like it will ever see the light of day again.- TS-R for product shooting at telephoto focal lengths. I don't think that macro would be useful for wide angle TS-R lenses.
An excellent wishlist, P-visie! Though I do want improved optical quality as there were times the 180mm fell just short. I think it is time that Canon lens collars had Arca-Swiss compatibility, too, as I am tired of replacing all the boots.My wishlist for a 180 - 200mm macro lens, ranked by importance (to me ) from high to lower:
And please NO:
- Same (or better) optical quality as the EF 180 mm
- 1:1 magnification
- Fast AF
- Compatible with RF extenders (for increased working distance with dragonflies, butterflies and other insects)
- Sufficient number of aperture blades for a round opening with good bokeh
- Image stabilization
- Internal focusing (like the EF 180mm)
- Focus limiter for close up focus range i.e. from closest focus distance to +/- 1 meter
- F 2.8
- Removable tripod collar
- Weight: equivalent to, or lighter than, the EF 180mm
- Spherical Aberration Control.
- Focus shift.
- Tilt/Shift: Tilting does not bring much extra in depth of field in the macro range. A long T/S macro lens would be heavier and probably be very expensive.
End-of-sale date or end-of-support date?The TS-E 135/4L was a 0.5x macro, launched in 2017 and discontinued in 2022, it’s the only TS-E with an EoL date (2027). A very short lifespan for a L lens. Not sure if that suggests it’s slated for replacement with a TS-R, or that it was so unpopular that nothing like it will ever see the light of day again.
I highly appreciate your competent and profound comments at this forum. Thus, I will consider switching to the RF version …. Thanks for your helpful reply.I was of that opinion as well, but ultimately I did switch and I have not found the issue to be problematic for me.
I had good luck in the 90s with a 90mm TS, 2xTE, and a 250D or 500D closeup lens. The only reason to have your plane of focus parallel to the sensor is that it is all you've ever shot with and all you ever think of doing. I specifically got butterfly and moth wings in much better focus, small leaves that weren't parallel to film, etc. etc.I don’t think tilt-shift would be a selling point. I’ve never wished for a tilt shift when I was doing macro work but I shoot nature stuff in the field.
I certainly hope so! Everything in engineering a lens is a tradeoff: improve vignetting, and size and price and weight probably go up. Improve distortion and astigmatism or other uncorrectable issues get worse.I suspect optically corrected vignetting and distortion are a thing of the past for Canon. I have mixed feelings on that, but for the lenses I actually use it hasn’t presented insurmountable issues yet.
I too once stated I'd never ever buy such a silly macro lens with a horrid focus shift. Yet other satisfied forum members decided me to give it a try, since I was anyway not entirely satisfied with the EF L version at infinity.I highly appreciate your competent and profound comments at this forum. Thus, I will consider switching to the RF version …. Thanks for your helpful reply.
I've shot a lot of hand-held macro in the field with a 90TS, TE and closeup lens 250D or 500D. No TS will "bring extra DOF," what it does is ALIGN that DOF with a non-parallel subject. And with this setup it had a huge effect. I could photograph say butterfly wings at maybe a 70 degree angle to the film plane with it. This combination of lenses weighed maybe about the same as the 180/3.5 so I wouldn't say it was too heavy, nor was it too expensive.Tilt/Shift: Tilting does not bring much extra in depth of field in the macro range. A long T/S macro lens would be heavier and probably be very expensive.
Good idea, I'll give it a try!I had good luck in the 90s with a 90mm TS, 2xTE, and a 250D or 500D closeup lens. The only reason to have your plane of focus parallel to the sensor is that it is all you've ever shot with and all you ever think of doing. I specifically got butterfly and moth wings in much better focus, small leaves that weren't parallel to film, etc. etc.
I usually use macro in the field by pre-setting the camera and lens, then moving the camera back and forth until I like the focus. The same works with tilt: just guesstimate a tilt based on your experience with the lens, and try to frame your subject. worst case scenario: re-guess and try again.