Thoughts from members that own the R3 but bought the R5 MkII

If you're insured, ok.
But in France, cost of insurance is about 10% of the equipment's value per year.
Therefore, I prefer 3 warranty years over saving 200 euros on a 4000 euro camera. Repairs out of warranty could cost lots more...
I was told many years ago and follow the advice to insure only against events that happen very rarely but are very expensive if they happen. For events that happen more frequently and you can afford to pay for yourself, then you are betting against an insurance company that know the odds better than you and make a profit, and you are also subsidizing the careless and those who treat their equipment badly. So, you end up paying more in the long run. However, if you can't afford to replace or repair yourself, then I suppose you have to take the insurance route.
 
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According to Chuck Westfall, the 1D X and 5D Mark III had the same part number for the PDAF array. The difference, which was noticeable, was all in the software/firmware. The same thing happened with the 5D Mark IV and 1D X mark II. They shared the same PDAF array but not the same software/firmware.

It's not much different from how the R6 got the same sensor that the 1D X Mark III has, but a different low-pass filter and JPEG engine.
If we want to be a little generous and assume this isn’t a classic example of the Canon Cripple Hammer™, it probably comes down to the processors. 1dx had the dual digic 5+s and then a dedicated digic 4 for the metering. 5diii had a single digic 5+ handling everything.

R1 vs R5II is a little different since they do seem to have identical processing capabilities, which is more capable than what’s there in the R3. Major advantage in the r1 being the cross type AF.

It is also worth noting that the 5 series has slowly gone up market over time while the 1 series has actually been getting cheaper even before adjusting for inflation.
 
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However, if you can't afford to replace or repair yourself, then I suppose you have to take the insurance route.
It also depends on the cost of that insurance. In the US, as long as camera gear is not used for generating income it can be added to a homeowner’s insurance policy, similar to jewelry or artwork. I do that with my camera gear and the insurance premiums are modest. I only have items costing >$1500 on the schedule, so ~10 lenses plus the R3, but in the unlikely event of a house fire, flood or break-in I’d prefer not to replace them all at once. The annual cost is just under 1.3% of the total value of the gear.
 
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It also depends on the cost of that insurance. In the US, as long as camera gear is not used for generating income it can be added to a homeowner’s insurance policy, similar to jewelry or artwork. I do that with my camera gear and the insurance premiums are modest. I only have items costing >$1500 on the schedule, so ~10 lenses plus the R3, but in the unlikely event of a house fire, flood or break-in I’d prefer not to replace them all at once. The annual cost is just under 1.3% of the total value of the gear.
I have a cover all house contents insurance too, which costs a fraction of specialist insurance. But the number of claims on it I have made over a lifetime is a small round number, between 9 and - on the keyboard. Effectively, there’s a massive no claims bonus on the insurance so you wouldn’t make a small claim anyway.
 
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I was told many years ago and follow the advice to insure only against events that happen very rarely but are very expensive if they happen. For events that happen more frequently and you can afford to pay for yourself, then you are betting against an insurance company that know the odds better than you and make a profit, and you are also subsidizing the careless and those who treat their equipment badly. So, you end up paying more in the long run. However, if you can't afford to replace or repair yourself, then I suppose you have to take the insurance route.
I haven't even spent a thought about insuring my cameras and lenses. It would cost me a fortune, much more I guess than the most expensive repair would cost. (5 bodies, 25 or more lenses).
But, given the choice between saving 200 euros on an R3, and three reliable (Panamoz) warranty years, I don't hesitate.
I've dealt with them a few times, very reactive company, always satisfactory answers. Not the standardised answers you often get from many other companies, making it an obligation to formulate the question a second or third time.
Of course, if cameras are stolen in my home or damaged by fire, the house insurance covers that. But not a mechanical damage, camera dropped, or faulty after warranty, for instance.
 
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There are vast and specific differences between what one does as a hobbyist photographer and what one does as a busy working professional regarding insurances.

There is no way I could possibly (or legally) insure my work equipment with my home insurance for when I'm in the field. Likewise, I couldn't possibly rely on any type of warranty offered by the seller, aside if it was a manufacturing defect, which would likely become apparent within a year. If something breaks I need it repaired quick sharp with no quibbles and a replacement until the work is done.

So as is demonstrated by this tangent on this thread, ones mileage varies.
 
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There are vast and specific differences between what one does as a hobbyist photographer and what one does as a busy working professional regarding insurances.

There is no way I could possibly (or legally) insure my work equipment with my home insurance for when I'm in the field. Likewise, I couldn't possibly rely on any type of warranty offered by the seller, aside if it was a manufacturing defect, which would likely become apparent within a year. If something breaks I need it repaired quick sharp with no quibbles and a replacement until the work is done.

So as is demonstrated by this tangent on this thread, ones mileage varies.
What percentage of the value of your gear do they charge yearly?
 
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It also depends on the cost of that insurance. In the US, as long as camera gear is not used for generating income it can be added to a homeowner’s insurance policy, similar to jewelry or artwork.
This is what I do as well.

But my insurance company is suspicious enough they have emailed or called me a couple of times making sure I understand I can’t use a homeowner’s policy if I am a professional and even explaining that what being a professional entails.

Nope, just a hobbyist, with expensive gear:LOL::cool:
 
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I started writing this earlier this month when the thread was much shorter. It's gotten a lot longer and I will admit that reading through 6 pages of this to see what has been discussed and hasn't is not high on my list of things to do. But I would love to provide any feedback I can that may help prospective buyers who are torn between these two cameras or already own an R3 or R5. Before making any comments about the R5II I needed to actually see how the camera performed in a real working environment over the course of several days of shooting. I've been on the road for over 20 days this month working. I shot almost 40,000 photos this month - and that will be added to tonight and tomorrow. I've shot two real estate listings with the R5II, two magazine features, 9 days of on-track motorsports photography, and multiple days of event coverage. Sprinkled in there has been multiple short video clips and one long day of video shooting. There's a lot to unpack with the R5II...so grab a cold drink and a snack or just keep scrolling because this is WAY too long for you. I may end up making a video about this comparison because of my unique perspective, but that would have to wait until I got home in mid October.

I can confidently say that - for me - the R5II is not a replacement for the R3. This comes down primarily to ergonomics, battery life, and file size.


Ergonomics: The R5II with a grip is still not an R3 body. If you know, you know. There’s just something about the robust, solid feel of a camera with a built-in grip that makes it better for shooting long sessions with longer lenses. It’s hard to explain to someone who hasn’t felt that solid, chunky body—it’s a love-it-or-hate-it thing, and I happen to love it. That feeling hasn’t changed for me. I also wouldn’t be surprised if the R3 had a reinforced lens mount while other bodies didn’t (just a theory, no proof). I can say, though, that using the R5 with a long lens feels more fragile compared to the R3. That comes down to the bit of flexing you feel with the battery grip as you raise the lens up - the R3 is solid.

Another major advantage for me is the extra front button on the R3. I like having one button set to control aperture preview, so I can check depth-of-field in real time when needed. The R3 also has a custom button I rely on, especially in video mode, where I’ve set it to engage tracking. That makes a huge difference for me when shooting video. Unfortunately, that specific feature isn’t even an assignable command on the R5II or R6II.


Battery Life: Even with two batteries in the grip, the battery life on the R5II has been poor. For comparison, the R6II performs much better in this area, and the R3 is in a league of its own. Additionally, the R3 drives “Big White” lens AF motors more efficiently, which is a big advantage for sports shooters. That said, the R5II’s autofocus has been very smooth and reliable in my experience, so I haven’t noticed any major differences beyond a generally positive performance.

I used the R5II as a backup third camera, shooting a mix of EFC and electronic shutter. If I took 700-1,200 shots, I always ended up using a second battery. By contrast, with the R3, I regularly shoot more than 3,000 photos on a single battery, sometimes using just one all day. For motorsports or event shooting, I can comfortably get through a day with two batteries on the R3 as my main body, whereas the R5II looks like it would need 3-4 batteries for the same level of usage. On paper, the R5II’s battery capacity should exceed that of the R3, but it drains faster in practice. Your results will vary depending on how you shoot and I'm sure there are already people thinking "700 photos in a single day?!? That's crazy" To that I say 'yes' it is crazy. Even crazier is that there are some races I shoot where I will easily shoot over 9,000 photos in a single day from 7am to 7pm! It's the abuse I signed up for.


File Size: It all depends on what you shoot and what you really need from a camera. I think many people convince themselves they need more resolution, but that’s often not the case. While higher resolution can be nice, I can confidently say I’d choose 24MP over 45MP almost every day, except for my commercial work.

This month alone, I’ve spent over 20 days on the road shooting, mostly covering motorsports events, and I’ve been using the R5II alongside a pair of R3 bodies. I’ve taken close to 45,000 photos—racing on-track, event coverage, car-to-car shots, you name it. The difference in storage between an R3 cRAW file and an R5II cRAW file can be as much as 1/4 the size. That’s a huge difference in terms of storage, offloading, backups, processing speed for editing, and exporting. So, to the critics who say “it’s only 24MP,” I’m more than happy to have such an incredible camera with just 24MP. Sure, I wouldn’t have minded 30MP in the R1, but I’m not about to cover races and events with 45MP—it’s just overkill.

For real estate photography, 45MP is completely unnecessary for listing photos. I’d only use the R5 and R5II resolution for high-end jobs where I have a week or more to craft the perfect set of images. I shot a $7-million ranch in 2019 that was featured in Southern Living Magazine using the R5, and I also used the R5II on a $2-million listing last month. But honestly, unless the listing is over $1 million, there’s no reason to shoot above 24MP. Photos on MLS sites are displayed at well under 12MP, so using higher resolution adds no real benefit. In fact, it slows down processing, increases composite file sizes, and makes sky replacements trickier since you need a 45MP sky, and most drop sky kits top out around 20MP. In other words, 45mp isn't practical for shooting these kind of images.
 
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So why even get an R5II? Well, you may need the resolution in a high performance camera or you shoot a lot of video.


Resolution/Performance: Yeah, it's a big difference. As mentioned above in my challenges with file sizes, it comes at a cost. But that cost is obviously worth it for many people - especially wildlife photographers and videographers. There's no denying those benefits if you need them. The great news here is that the R5II's capabilities to replace an R3 are valid. This camera is every bit as capable as the R3 in shooting performance and I would even argue that it's better suited for it because of the new AF and pre-capture feature. As those files add up, be prepared to allocate enough storage for it!

For my commercial and magazine photography, I rarely used the R3, except as a handheld backup or for behind-the-scenes shots. While 24MP is still very capable today, 45MP excels in situations where that extra detail is essential. That’s the main reason I keep it. The higher resolution allows me to zoom in for pixel-level edits, making it easier to clean up files. It also gives me the flexibility to shoot wide and crop later to meet the art director’s needs. I also plan to use the R5II for recreational wildlife photography. The R3 and R6II have been excellent for this, but the added resolution of the R5II, combined with a stacked sensor, will be a great improvement.


Video: 8K video may sound like a gimmick to a lot of people and to an extent, it may be. But if you're a wildlife videographer, you now have 8K60 and 8K24 that can reliably be shot in camera to memory cards while using some of the absolute best animal tracking ever seen. What's more, you can crop in on 8K video 2x and get 4K resolution - giving you more effective focal length. You can then crop into that another 2x and have 1080p! I would have to imagine that this is a very enticing package for wildlife videography. This camera introduces much greater flexibility for video resolution than the R3, supports four audio channels (you can record scratch audio from camera in addition to dual channels from external microphones), proper file naming of the Cinema line (honestly HUGE for big jobs), CLOG2, and full-size HDMI. I don't think I need to say more. This is just a VERY robust video package. I still need more time to test low-light video because I will say the image does seem to fall apart beyond 12,800ISO while the R3 performed much better than it should have at high ISO video.


For Me: I am replacing my original R5 and my C70 with a pair of R5II bodies. This is not replacing my R3 bodies. In fact, I've had an R1 on pre-order and I may see how that camera does and pick up another R1. I'm still not convinced that the R1 will be that much better than an R3, enough to dump $12,600+ into a pair of bodies and only get maybe $4,000-5,000 back for selling the truly sublime R3. It's a very hard sell, Canon....a VERY hard sell. For video, I quickly fell out of love with the original R5 because I hated the colors coming off of that sensor in video. The R3 has been my primary handheld video camera for almost every job I've shot in the past 3 years. The C70 will be sold as well. That camera is pretty great, but the image is barely 4K, and appears softer than I like...it doesn't leave any option to crop reframe on a 4K timeline like the crispy downsampled 4K from the R3. The only reason I even got the C70 was to have a dedicated full-time video camera sitting in a bag ready to go at all time, and because we were working with people on set that wanted to see us shooting with "big professional gear" to make their investment seem more worthwhile. I don't like that this is how our industry is run, but I also can't ignore it. We'll rent a C80 if we need to put on a show for them again. haha


Biggest Negatives So Far: Aside from everything I've already mentioned, I've encountered a few less desirable quarks with the R5II over the past month. Last week, I took a burst of about 8-10 shots and the AF box totally disappeared. I quickly followed that up with a second burst and the autofocus was totally non functional. I was shooting with electronic shutter at 30fps in cRAW when this happened. On Wednesday last week it was unseasonably hot in Indianapolis. Sitting on the ground was my R3 baking in the sun, in my hands was the R5II. Soon enough, the camera became very hot to the touch on both side of the body. The camera was showing 4 bars on the heat display after about 30 minutes. It reached 5 bars at 1-hour and quickly rose to 6 bars within a few minutes. I turned the camera off and let it cool off for a bit while I used the R3 - which didn't even flinch at the temperatures. I picked up the R5 again after about half an hour and the camera SKYROCKETED to 8 bars after just another 20 minutes of shooting photos and having a half hour to sit. I also encountered a lens error ONCE when I powered on and had the RF 100-300 attached without any teleconverters.

Blackout free display has to be one of the most annoying settings Canon has ever introduced. When I’m using electronic shutter, I love to use blackout free display - it’s a great feature to have. But if I want to switch back to EFC Shutter, I need to go into the menu and manually disable blackout free display before I can switch my shutter mode. Why? What is the point of this? Why can’t my request to change to a different shutter mode automatically change this? Also, FALSE COLOR! This is an exposure tool. I want to quickly toggle this on to check exposure and then turn it off so it doesn't look completely stupid while I'm recording. How it’s being implemented right now is virtually useless unless you’re just turning it on to set exposure before recording in a controlled environment and then you turn back on all the stuff you want to use.

The editing process and noise performance with the R5II files have been quite unique, particularly in how they’re handled in Lightroom compared to previous Canon models. You can push the shadows so far that they turn white, requiring extra caution when working with the RAW files. It feels like there might be a future update to address this, but there’s no guarantee. That said, the early files definitely looked worse. However, after a recent Lightroom update last week, I noticed a significant improvement in how the R5II images are rendered upon import. It could be subjective, but with my extensive experience working with these files, the recent update seems to have made a noticeable difference in overall image quality.


Biggest Pros So Far: The autofocus has been a pleasant surprise—it’s significantly better. My main cameras are two Canon R3 bodies, along with the R6 Mark II and the original R5. As a motorsports photographer, I can confidently say the autofocus has seen a substantial improvement. Subject acquisition and tracking are incredibly smooth and seamless; I instantly noticed the difference. The AF also performs much better in low light, even isolating a driver’s eye wearing a helmet through windshields or open doors, which is a huge quality-of-life upgrade I’m excited to see in the R1.

The CLOG2 video files are also impressive. The highlight roll-off, colors, and dynamic range are noticeably better, resulting in a much more polished video file. Plus, with CLOG2, the R5II now integrates into a full cinema workflow, complete with a proper file-naming structure to match!


Conclusion: With the autofocus and video improvements in the R5II, my anticipation for the upcoming R1 has only grown. The R3 is exceptional in its own right and nothing has taken that away. The main reason I would recommend the R5II over the R3 for still photography is if you genuinely need the higher resolution or the pre-capture feature. For video work, however, the R5II offers greater versatility with its higher video resolution options, additional audio channels, Cinema line file naming, CLOG2, and full-size HDMI, making it a more robust choice for videographers.
 
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So why even get an R5II? Well, you may need the resolution in a high performance camera or you shoot a lot of video.


Resolution/Performance: Yeah, it's a big difference. As mentioned above in my challenges with file sizes, it comes at a cost. But that cost is obviously worth it for many people - especially wildlife photographers and videographers. There's no denying those benefits if you need them. The great news here is that the R5II's capabilities to replace an R3 are valid. This camera is every bit as capable as the R3 in shooting performance and I would even argue that it's better suited for it because of the new AF and pre-capture feature. As those files add up, be prepared to allocate enough storage for it!

For my commercial and magazine photography, I rarely used the R3, except as a handheld backup or for behind-the-scenes shots. While 24MP is still very capable today, 45MP excels in situations where that extra detail is essential. That’s the main reason I keep it. The higher resolution allows me to zoom in for pixel-level edits, making it easier to clean up files. It also gives me the flexibility to shoot wide and crop later to meet the art director’s needs. I also plan to use the R5II for recreational wildlife photography. The R3 and R6II have been excellent for this, but the added resolution of the R5II, combined with a stacked sensor, will be a great improvement.


Video: 8K video may sound like a gimmick to a lot of people and to an extent, it may be. But if you're a wildlife videographer, you now have 8K60 and 8K24 that can reliably be shot in camera to memory cards while using some of the absolute best animal tracking ever seen. What's more, you can crop in on 8K video 2x and get 4K resolution - giving you more effective focal length. You can then crop into that another 2x and have 1080p! I would have to imagine that this is a very enticing package for wildlife videography. This camera introduces much greater flexibility for video resolution than the R3, supports four audio channels (you can record scratch audio from camera in addition to dual channels from external microphones), proper file naming of the Cinema line (honestly HUGE for big jobs), CLOG2, and full-size HDMI. I don't think I need to say more. This is just a VERY robust video package. I still need more time to test low-light video because I will say the image does seem to fall apart beyond 12,800ISO while the R3 performed much better than it should have at high ISO video.


For Me: I am replacing my original R5 and my C70 with a pair of R5II bodies. This is not replacing my R3 bodies. In fact, I've had an R1 on pre-order and I may see how that camera does and pick up another R1. I'm still not convinced that the R1 will be that much better than an R3, enough to dump $12,600+ into a pair of bodies and only get maybe $4,000-5,000 back for selling the truly sublime R3. It's a very hard sell, Canon....a VERY hard sell. For video, I quickly fell out of love with the original R5 because I hated the colors coming off of that sensor in video. The R3 has been my primary handheld video camera for almost every job I've shot in the past 3 years. The C70 will be sold as well. That camera is pretty great, but the image is barely 4K, and appears softer than I like...it doesn't leave any option to crop reframe on a 4K timeline like the crispy downsampled 4K from the R3. The only reason I even got the C70 was to have a dedicated full-time video camera sitting in a bag ready to go at all time, and because we were working with people on set that wanted to see us shooting with "big professional gear" to make their investment seem more worthwhile. I don't like that this is how our industry is run, but I also can't ignore it. We'll rent a C80 if we need to put on a show for them again. haha


Biggest Negatives So Far: Aside from everything I've already mentioned, I've encountered a few less desirable quarks with the R5II over the past month. Last week, I took a burst of about 8-10 shots and the AF box totally disappeared. I quickly followed that up with a second burst and the autofocus was totally non functional. I was shooting with electronic shutter at 30fps in cRAW when this happened. On Wednesday last week it was unseasonably hot in Indianapolis. Sitting on the ground was my R3 baking in the sun, in my hands was the R5II. Soon enough, the camera became very hot to the touch on both side of the body. The camera was showing 4 bars on the heat display after about 30 minutes. It reached 5 bars at 1-hour and quickly rose to 6 bars within a few minutes. I turned the camera off and let it cool off for a bit while I used the R3 - which didn't even flinch at the temperatures. I picked up the R5 again after about half an hour and the camera SKYROCKETED to 8 bars after just another 20 minutes of shooting photos and having a half hour to sit. I also encountered a lens error ONCE when I powered on and had the RF 100-300 attached without any teleconverters.

Blackout free display has to be one of the most annoying settings Canon has ever introduced. When I’m using electronic shutter, I love to use blackout free display - it’s a great feature to have. But if I want to switch back to EFC Shutter, I need to go into the menu and manually disable blackout free display before I can switch my shutter mode. Why? What is the point of this? Why can’t my request to change to a different shutter mode automatically change this? Also, FALSE COLOR! This is an exposure tool. I want to quickly toggle this on to check exposure and then turn it off so it doesn't look completely stupid while I'm recording. How it’s being implemented right now is virtually useless unless you’re just turning it on to set exposure before recording in a controlled environment and then you turn back on all the stuff you want to use.

The editing process and noise performance with the R5II files have been quite unique, particularly in how they’re handled in Lightroom compared to previous Canon models. You can push the shadows so far that they turn white, requiring extra caution when working with the RAW files. It feels like there might be a future update to address this, but there’s no guarantee. That said, the early files definitely looked worse. However, after a recent Lightroom update last week, I noticed a significant improvement in how the R5II images are rendered upon import. It could be subjective, but with my extensive experience working with these files, the recent update seems to have made a noticeable difference in overall image quality.


Biggest Pros So Far: The autofocus has been a pleasant surprise—it’s significantly better. My main cameras are two Canon R3 bodies, along with the R6 Mark II and the original R5. As a motorsports photographer, I can confidently say the autofocus has seen a substantial improvement. Subject acquisition and tracking are incredibly smooth and seamless; I instantly noticed the difference. The AF also performs much better in low light, even isolating a driver’s eye wearing a helmet through windshields or open doors, which is a huge quality-of-life upgrade I’m excited to see in the R1.

The CLOG2 video files are also impressive. The highlight roll-off, colors, and dynamic range are noticeably better, resulting in a much more polished video file. Plus, with CLOG2, the R5II now integrates into a full cinema workflow, complete with a proper file-naming structure to match!


Conclusion: With the autofocus and video improvements in the R5II, my anticipation for the upcoming R1 has only grown. The R3 is exceptional in its own right and nothing has taken that away. The main reason I would recommend the R5II over the R3 for still photography is if you genuinely need the higher resolution or the pre-capture feature. For video work, however, the R5II offers greater versatility with its higher video resolution options, additional audio channels, Cinema line file naming, CLOG2, and full-size HDMI, making it a more robust choice for videographers.
Excellent write up. Thank you!
 
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Unfortunately, that specific feature isn’t even an assignable command on the R5II or R6II.
Are you refereing to something other than the “Start/Stop whole area AF tracking” feature?


Blackout free display has to be one of the most annoying settings Canon has ever introduced. When I’m using electronic shutter, I love to use blackout free display - it’s a great feature to have. But if I want to switch back to EFC Shutter, I need to go into the menu and manually disable blackout free display before I can switch my shutter mode.
Does the R3 handle this differently?
 
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Are you refereing to something other than the “Start/Stop whole area AF tracking” feature?



Does the R3 handle this differently?
Are you referring to something other than the “Start/Stop whole area AF tracking” feature?
I was. On the R3, this feature is called "Start/Stop Tracking". I don't know what I was thinking, but I just tried the "Start/Stop Whole Area AF Tracking and it appears to work the same way! Thank you! This is INCREDIBLY useful for video if you want to command the camera to track something without touching the screen.


Does the R3 handle this differently?
The R3 does not have "Blackout Free Display" as an option in the menu at all. When you start a burst on the R3 in electronic shutter mode it will always initially go black before the first shot. From that point forward, I believe it provides a "blackout free" performance where the live view feed into the viewfinder isn't interrupted. The R5II has you select it in the menu. You still get the initial black frame, but during panning it's less choppy and more natural? Hard to say. I stopped using the feature because of how Canon chose to implement it - it's massively agitating to go through the process of disabling it and enabling it just to change your shutter mode. How about you let us set it by default in electronic shutter mode, Canon!?!? haha
 
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Are you referring to something other than the “Start/Stop whole area AF tracking” feature?
I was. On the R3, this feature is called "Start/Stop Tracking". I don't know what I was thinking, but I just tried the "Start/Stop Whole Area AF Tracking and it appears to work the same way! Thank you! This is INCREDIBLY useful for video if you want to command the camera to track something without touching the screen.


Does the R3 handle this differently?
The R3 does not have "Blackout Free Display" as an option in the menu at all. When you start a burst on the R3 in electronic shutter mode it will always initially go black before the first shot. From that point forward, I believe it provides a "blackout free" performance where the live view feed into the viewfinder isn't interrupted. The R5II has you select it in the menu. You still get the initial black frame, but during panning it's less choppy and more natural? Hard to say. I stopped using the feature because of how Canon chose to implement it - it's massively agitating to go through the process of disabling it and enabling it just to change your shutter mode. How about you let us set it by default in electronic shutter mode, Canon!?!? haha
Ha, I guess Canon did change the name of the feature to be a bit more verbose (and I checked the newly uploaded R1 manual, that does seem to maintain the naming from the R6II/R5II). You would think they'd try to homogenize that with firmware updates, but I guess Canon will be Canon

And I see - I had assumed with the R3 being advertised as 'blackout free' it would have been a discrete menu option like the R5II (and R1)
 
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As a sports photographer the R5 mkII is such a dramatic step up from the R3 for my use.
I use the 600mm f4 and I'm constantly cropping in on my photos for the ideal composition.
I was noticing on the 24MP R3 that I was losing a fair bit of quality while cropping.
I only was able to use the R5 mkII for one game before the end of the season but the cropped final products with this camera were significantly better for my use than the cropped R3 images. Of course, this may be limited usefulness if you are only providing photos on social media but for large prints (which I produced for the clubs B&F) it will make a more than moderate difference for my final products.Pioneers v Stingrays-1.jpgPioneers v Stingrays-16.jpgPioneers v Stingrays-4.jpgPioneers v Stingrays-10.jpg
 

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I traded one of my R3s and bought an R5 II.
but before you think the R5 II is a replacement for sports, it isn't.
It's really down to file size, buffer size and the need to crop (I don't do that).

I have an R1 on order and it will become my primary sports body with the R3 as secondary (I shoot 2 bodies on the job).
Continuity of file size and storage is very important if you shoot sports all day for 8 hours and have to store, cull and edit the best ones.

I have an R5 so the R5 II gets paired with it.
The R5 is used for landscapes and flash and all things mechanical.
The R5 II is used in electronic shutter only.
I pair them together for event work and portraits.

I can't see a reason to pair the R1 with the R5 II on a job because they are different tools for different workflows IMHO.
 
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I pair them together for event work and portraits.
Is there some in-sight on why you specifically use these r5x bodies for events and portraits over the R3? See, I am not a sports photographer, I shoot events and portraits. I wish for an R3 as its speed, low light capabilities, more custom buttons, possibly better ergonomics, sound like sokid upgrades to my workflow and style - but am wondering if I may be choosing badly when compared to an R52. Currently using 5Div's and have always used 5 series since mk 2.
 
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I decided that I’m going for an R3 instead. I think Canon really blew it with the launch of the R5 II in Europe. They’re not getting my money this time, and I’ll save $2500 buying a mint, used, R3 over a new R5 II. Maybe in a couple of years, maybe going back to fullsize bodies, not sure. I feel much better about the decision as well, time to have some fun and shoot some again.
 
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Is there some in-sight on why you specifically use these r5x bodies for events and portraits over the R3? See, I am not a sports photographer, I shoot events and portraits. I wish for an R3 as its speed, low light capabilities, more custom buttons, possibly better ergonomics, sound like sokid upgrades to my workflow and style - but am wondering if I may be choosing badly when compared to an R52. Currently using 5Div's and have always used 5 series since mk 2.
Higher resolution, where absolute speed isn't the ultimate goal.
I shot the San Francisco Carnaval as an official photographer this year with 2x R3s and a 24-70 F2.8 / 70-200 F2.8 combo @ 30 FPS for 8 hours. Got some excellent shots but that was before I got the R5 II. If I had a pair of R5 II's I'd probably have shot them in preference because of the glamor and spectacle of the dancers, where high resolution pays off.

For actual sports, where I don't really care about resolution and I don't need to crop, then 24 MP is fine.
I actually shot travel photography for a month in remote Ladakh Northern India with the 2x R3s and a 24-70 F2.8 / 70-200 F2.8 combo and got some really nice shots. The low light capability and low noise and ruggedness of the R3 was great. I'm hoping the R1 improves on it some.

If I had a lot of spare cash, I'd have a pair of R5 II's and and pair of R1's, but not this year :)
 
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