Which one do you mean, the old EF version?If they'd just make a 28L..... No idea why they're allergic to it.. since their 28 1.8 is the worst 28 ever made.
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Which one do you mean, the old EF version?If they'd just make a 28L..... No idea why they're allergic to it.. since their 28 1.8 is the worst 28 ever made.
While I applaud your persistence in continuing to ask, at some point you should realize that no one will provide an example because such examples don't exist. Not that a rhetorical question serves no purpose...Again if I'm wrong, just show me the example photo where the corrected version has somehow suffered for the correction, or is otherwise inferior to a similar lens that doesn't need correction.
I agree with everything that you said, although I decided to at least wait until I can rent the 1.4 because I will want to sometimes use an extension tube. The EF 1.4 just wasn't good enough in that one area.They do! they really seem not to like my money...
If (IF!) they will release a 35 1.2 I will pre-order it and sell the 1.4 - I do not mind this 1.4 and the ergonomics are great apart from the thin AF ring, but it does not have the magic of the 2 other RF 1.2 primes I have. I know that the software corrections are a deliberate compromise and that in normal circumstances they have near-0 impact, but maybe I am a bigot but I prefer optically corrected lenses.
I am not regretting the decision to buy the 1.4 since a) this is still a rumor after all and b), assuming the rumor is true in this regard, who knows how long we'll be actually waiting for the 35 1.2? I have been needing a 35 for too long.
I have to agree with you. While the rf 16 is similar enough in quality to the ef 14mm Lii, the 14 is chromatic and can be somewhat corrected depending on what software (Darktable is free and suprisingly very good at this, but it's not automatic like dxo photolab which can't produce as good results) you use and how much time you want to use. So, I believe a new L lens design would be able to produce sharper corners. Either with newer optical technology or improved chromatic aberration correction. That's just my belief and I can't really prove anything.Why?
Maybe because I still believe that a lens optically designed to have little distorsion could have an advantage over lenses like the RF 16 mm relying heavily on electronic distorsion correction. Its corner sharpness data are less than overwhelming according to OpticalLimits.
Nothing against electronic distorsion correction, which can easily produce results as good as optical distorsion correction. But within limits. Extreme corner stretching does usually produce softer corners.
I have noticed at least with R5 and rf 16, selecting a small focus point towords the left or right side will result in an incorrect decision by the autofocus. The solution is manual focus, but if you need autofocus, it's likely to miss.I've been hearing that for years and keep asking around for examples. In what way can you tell you're getting an image that's been distortion-corrected in software rather than having perfect optical performance? Do you have any example photos?
But usually we compose photos with subject in the center portion...I have noticed at least with R5 and rf 16, selecting a small focus point towords the left or right side will result in an incorrect decision by the autofocus. The solution is manual focus, but if you need autofocus, it's likely to miss.
It's hackneyed to go for the rule-of-thirds but that's usually what I go for. It's certainly better than a centered subject. I can't recall often putting the subject purposefully on the edge of a composition but it's probably happened a few times.But usually we compose photos with subject in the center portion...
Hmm, hyperfocal at f/11 is like 15cm/6" to infinity. I'm sure there's some rare ultra-wide-angle subjects at the very edge of a frame in compositions where you're wide-open and they're near enough the camera's not catching them with a hyperfocal solution, but I think those shots wouldn't be that common.I have noticed at least with R5 and rf 16, selecting a small focus point towords the left or right side will result in an incorrect decision by the autofocus. The solution is manual focus, but if you need autofocus, it's likely to miss.
Maybe YOU do, but I only do so it I plan to cropBut usually we compose photos with subject in the center portion...
You aren't wrong at all about f/11 on this lens. However, at least for me, I can't use f/11 all the time and as we mentioned before using wide and ultra wides for macro or at least as close as we can get can be more interesting than the usual 100mm or 180mm macros. If I remember the rf 16 2.8 stm is capable of something around 25% magnification.Hmm, hyperfocal at f/11 is like 15cm/6" to infinity. I'm sure there's some rare ultra-wide-angle subjects at the very edge of a frame in compositions where you're wide-open and they're near enough the camera's not catching them with a hyperfocal solution, but I think those shots wouldn't be that common.
BTW one AF mode I've always wanted is simply to be able to ask for hyperfocal and have the camera just do whatever focus distance gives me that, maybe opting for numerically higher f-stop when possible.
BTW one AF mode I've always wanted is simply to be able to ask for hyperfocal and have the camera just do whatever focus distance gives me that, maybe opting for numerically higher f-stop when possible.
A-DEP:If I remember correctly, the old Eos10 film camera, had this ability. You had to focus on (i) the nearest point you wanted in focus, then (ii) the furthest point you wanted in focus then it would calculate the f-stop and focus point for you.
I miss the DOF/f-stop markings on lenses that have all but disappeared from modern lenses - didn't use them often, but when you need them, you need them...
Edited to add : A little bit of googling throws up that it was called "Depth of field AE" and was also available on the 1D, so perhaps it's been on several Canon cameras over the years?
This is an ancient feature that was present in the first EOS film cameras, i.e. the EOS 650/620 and 600/630.If I remember correctly, the old Eos10 film camera, had this ability. You had to focus on (i) the nearest point you wanted in focus, then (ii) the furthest point you wanted in focus then it would calculate the f-stop and focus point for you.
I miss the DOF/f-stop markings on lenses that have all but disappeared from modern lenses - didn't use them often, but when you need them, you need them...
Edited to add : A little bit of googling throws up that it was called "Depth of field AE" and was also available on the 1D, so perhaps it's been on several Canon cameras over the years?
The EOS 3 had that feature as well: https://support.usa.canon.com/kb/index?page=content&id=ART117935This is an ancient feature that was present in the first EOS film cameras, i.e. the EOS 650/620 and 600/630.
Yes, this might have been on my EOS-3, 1V, 1DsMkI II III, but wasn't on the 1N.If I remember correctly, the old Eos10 film camera, had this ability. You had to focus on (i) the nearest point you wanted in focus, then (ii) the furthest point you wanted in focus then it would calculate the f-stop and focus point for you.
105 is 3x35. the number 105 has appeared for other lenses in the past, perhaps for that reason.I always wondered why lenses like the 24-105 end at 105mm? Why not 100 or 120? Ok, maybe 120mm would make then a bit bigger but 105mm just seems so random.