There will be changes to the Canon EOS R1 before launch

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Only 24MP :(
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The Canon EOS R1 is scheduled to become available in November for $6299 USD, and the camera is already in production at a supposed rate of 3700 units a month. The EOS R1 was first used professionally Formula 1 races and the Paris games this past July, but it has continued to be professionally tested across the globe at many other events. We have been told that there will be a few changes to the software related specifications of the camera and that we will see a couple of “new features” being added to the final version of the camera.

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I expect that one of the changes will be a customizable amount of pre-shoot capture frames (as opposed to "20 regardless of burst rate").
Wonder what else they bring. Maybe teaching the AI some more sports? (though I imagine that might take a bit longer.)
 
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Just got an R3, which I am quite enjoying next to an R5. R1 is a bit too pricey for me, but I'm looking forward to seeing what it can really do in the end. Maybe an R3II could get some of its features, and I may trade both my current bodies fr one.
Brian
 
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Just got an R3, which I am quite enjoying next to an R5. R1 is a bit too pricey for me, but I'm looking forward to seeing what it can really do in the end. Maybe an R3II could get some of its features, and I may trade both my current bodies fr one.
Brian
R3 is a great camera. I have used one since launch in Nov 2021.
 
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Just got an R3, which I am quite enjoying next to an R5. R1 is a bit too pricey for me, but I'm looking forward to seeing what it can really do in the end. Maybe an R3II could get some of its features, and I may trade both my current bodies fr one.
Brian
I love my R3 for sports photography. I had hoped the R5M2 would bring the higher resolution along side the speed, and it "can" but I would have to shoot jpg only to get enough shot count to do what I need to do. I'm hoping a future 1 series comes along with a higher resolution to get me all that I need. Until then I will shoot my R3 till the 1 comes out, then I will decide if the upgrade is worthy over the 3.
 
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The manual for the R1 is already available (https://cam.start.canon/en/C018/index.html) so I am not expecting anything too dramatic.
Thank you for posting the link to the manual. It confirmed that the buffer in RAW at 40 fps is 230 frames. With precapture enabled this gives me a 5 second buffer. Frankly wished it was a deeper buffer with 500 frames especially for a flagship camera.
 
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Thank you for posting the link to the manual. It confirmed that the buffer in RAW at 40 fps is 230 frames. With precapture enabled this gives me a 5 second buffer. Frankly wished it was a deeper buffer with 500 frames especially for a flagship camera.
Is cRAW an option for you? That practically doubles your buffer and I couldn't spot a visual difference aside from low light shots.
 
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I love my R3 for sports photography. I had hoped the R5M2 would bring the higher resolution along side the speed, and it "can" but I would have to shoot jpg only to get enough shot count to do what I need to do. I'm hoping a future 1 series comes along with a higher resolution to get me all that I need. Until then I will shoot my R3 till the 1 comes out, then I will decide if the upgrade is worthy over the 3.
An R3II with about 30-36mp might be the perfect camera for me right now. As long as it has the same R3 body and not the bigger R1 body. The ergonomics on the R3 are PERFECT for me. Like a glove.

I have shot sports with my R5 as well, and it really gives no benefit with the extra pixels. Stuff that's farther away you can crop down to, but in field sports there are few images where there aren't people or other things in the way so it ends up not being very many images. And for screen display or even large-ish prints (30x20), there is not a significant difference between it my 5DIII ad 22mp. So the shorter buffer and larger file size just feels like a pain to me. I'm fine with 24mp for most uses. I say 36 just because it would be a middle ground with a little more flexibility, but still reasonable file and buffer sizes.

Brian
 
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Thank you for posting the link to the manual. It confirmed that the buffer in RAW at 40 fps is 230 frames. With precapture enabled this gives me a 5 second buffer. Frankly wished it was a deeper buffer with 500 frames especially for a flagship camera.
what on earth are you missing that you cant get in a 5 sec burst and 230 frames? the camera is the problem?
 
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Sometimes I have to raise shadows in post so I prefer RAW
For general shooting I agree, but you do have it as an option, though.
You can choose to shoot RAW and have the maximum shadow information in case you need it, with a buffer of 230 (5.75 seconds at 40fps).
Or you can shoot CRAW and get a buffer of 420 frames (10.5 seconds at 40fps), and make sure your exposure is correct.
Or you can shoot RAW at 30fps and get probably more than 8 seconds of buffer (I imagine the buffer empties while it fills).

If you know that for a specific use case you need 10 or more seconds of buffer, make sure your exposure is correct and shoot CRAW. There's hardly any advantage for RAW vs CRAW if the image is somewhat properly exposed. Only if you start pushing it by like 2 or more stops of exposure do you really see a difference.
 
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I expect that one of the changes will be a customizable amount of pre-shoot capture frames (as opposed to "20 regardless of burst rate").
Wonder what else they bring. Maybe teaching the AI some more sports? (though I imagine that might take a bit longer.)
Special sync mode for three R1 juggling?
 
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If you know that for a specific use case you need 10 or more seconds of buffer, make sure your exposure is correct and shoot CRAW. There's hardly any advantage for RAW vs CRAW if the image is somewhat properly exposed. Only if you start pushing it by like 2 or more stops of exposure do you really see a difference.
I think a lot of the benefits come when the subjects etc are moving in different light — imagine a stadium that is partly shaded and you have athletes running down the 100m track moving from sun to shade to sun to shade.

The camera meter is not perfect and I would shoot -1 EV or more to protect highlights. That’s when having the latitude of full RAW helps.
 
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